This is a story that is better told in person in order to get the full flavor, but several of the people closest to me asked me to post in on my blog so here we go...
I hope you like it.
Throughout the course of our lives we encounter special people who help make us who we are. These people are usually our parents, friends, favorite teachers, co-workers, and world leaders. Everyone has a few of them even if they don't know it. I have a number of them too, but the one I want to tell you about today is a waitress named Toppy.
First of all, I want to tell you that I did not go to culinary school. I elected to do a chef apprenticeship instead. During a stint at a restaurant in Seattle I met Toppy.
Toppy was a server and long time employee of the restaurant. The place was very busy and the cuisine and service were upscale but not exactly fine dining. Toppy was older than the other servers -- maybe in her mid-forties -- and sported a beehive hair style. Not one of the super tall ones, but tall enough that you would know it was a beehive. The customers and management loved Toppy because somehow she was really good at serving customers, always showed up for work, and always did everything she was asked to do.
Everyone has a favorite thing. Sometimes it's a spouse, a child, a car, a pair of jeans, or a pet. A favorite thing is something that's more important to you than anything else. The thought of losing that thing makes you wonder if life would even be worth living if it disappeared from your life. Toppy had one too. Her favorite thing was valium. She loved valium, and she loved a lot of it.
At this point you might be thinking that there's no way Toppy could take valium while on her shift at a busy restaurant and still be a model employee, but you would be wrong. In the two weeks I worked on the floor with her I never saw her sober. In fact, in the five or six months that I worked at that restaurant I never saw Toppy sober. Don't get me wrong. I don't have any problems with recreational drug use as long as it's done safely and doesn't harm others. Just don't show up to work high as a kite and then wonder why you just cut off your thumb on a meat saw.
If you looked at Toppy you would have to be stupid not to know immediately know that she was high as fuck. Her eyes would only open about a quarter of the way. This caused her to have to tilt her head back so she could see you standing in front of her. Her mouth was hanging open most of the time. It wasn't smiling. It was just hanging there open so you could see all her dental work and even count her teeth if you wanted to. Toppy moved very slowly. She took tiny steps, obviously having to give each one of them some deep consideration before committing to raising or lowering a foot. You didn't want to get behind Toppy when coming out of the kitchen toward the dining room. If you happened to be carrying a tray of food then you could be guaranteed that it would be ice cold by the time you got it to the table unless she veered off her chosen path and miraculously got out of your way.
Toppy was also a slow talker. When you think of the term slow talker you think of someone who speaks sentences very slowly and takes a long time to get their point across. Toppy did this, but she was also a slow answerer. If you asked her a question it would take her an incredibly long time to begin giving you her answer. It was like the verbal communication between you had to travel all the way to the moon and back and then required some intense processing before a response could be sent back over the same route. It usually took her 5-10 seconds to respond to a question and start slowly giving her answer. This doesn't seem like a long time, but the next time you're having a conversation with someone think about it and you'll understand how long that really is. To make this even better, she was also too stoned to speak loudly enough to hear her unless you were standing very close.
On the first night of my time in the dining room the management, in their infinite wisdom, paired me with Toppy. I was supposed to follow her all night and learn how service worked. When I showed up about 30 minutes before my shift I was waiting in the service area for Toppy to show up and I introduced myself to the other servers. They were generally very friendly, but all of them rolled their eyes or slowly shook their head when I told them I was following Toppy all night. I was beginning to develop a feeling of impending doom. On top of that, the manager had failed to inform Toppy that I would be working with her, so when she showed up and I told her she just squinted at me for a good long time while she processed that information and then just said "Ok" without even moving her lips and walked away.
If you've ever worked in a restaurant you know that there's more involved to opening for the evening than just unlocking the doors and letting people start coming in. By opening time the kitchen has spent all day getting things ready. The servers have opening duties as well. They have to make sure the service area is well-stocked, there are enough napkins folded, coffee and tea are made, lemons are cut, and condiments are full. There's a lot more to it than that, but you get the idea -- it's a lot of work to get set up and it all has to be completed by opening time.
Knowing this, I asked Toppy what we needed to do to get set up. She thought for a very long time and then finally just said "You know, just the usual stuff." I decided to watch the other servers and just do whatever they were doing. That seemed to work because a couple of the other servers commented that our section looked pretty good. One of them loaned me their extra wine opener so I would have one in case I got lucky and someone ordered a bottle of wine. I felt like I was part of the team.
The restaurant wasn't super busy that night so the first part of the evening went well. I very slowly learned where everything was kept, how to ring in orders, how to get drinks from the bar, and how to collect payment from the customers. When I say I learned these things very slowly, it wasn't because I'm a slow learner. It was because it took Toppy and exceptionally long time to explain them to me and most of them couldn't be explained without a short intermission part way through for a cigarette or restroom break.
After a couple of hours she let me help carry food to the tables and serve it. This place didn't use trays so we had to carry plates without them. Servers were permitted to carry as many plates as they could balance as long as they didn't ever drop one. This was out of my comfort zone, so I self-limited my capacity to three plates. Toppy, on the other hand, would balance half a dozen plates on her arms and still swing by the bar to pick up a few drinks on her way to the table. The food was almost certainly cold when it reached the table due to the time it took her to make the trip, but it eventually got there safely.
Think about this for a minute. If you've ever stumbled home after a long night of drinking with friends and tried to unlock your front door, you know it can sometimes be a challenge to get the key in the hole and turn it. Imagine being twice that impaired and having to balance 4 or 5 plates of hot food on your forearms and carry them through a busy dining room without dropping or spilling anything. Toppy was way more than impaired but she did it over and over and over again without incident. Amazing.
So at one point during the night one of Toppy's orders came up while she was at the point-of-sale ringing in a new order. The expeditor was screaming for her to pick it up because there were a couple of orders coming up right behind it and her food was in the way. She told me (very slowly) "Take the first three to table 14 and I'll follow with the other three." I grabbed them and told the expeditor that Toppy would be coming to get the rest. I maneuvered through the dining room and successfully delivered the plates to the table. When I turned around Toppy was nowhere to be seen so I went back to the kitchen hoping to either meet her carrying the remaining three plates or get them myself.
When I went through the service area Toppy was not there, but I could see her back in the salad area calmly eating sliced radishes. She saw me and slowly walked back to the service area. I asked if she wanted me to serve the rest of the order and she thought for what seemed like ten minutes and finally said "No, I'll do it." She grabbed the plates and headed out to the table. I stayed in the service area to ring in some drinks and after a few minutes she came back without the plates and went over to the expeditor stand. She headed back over to me and said that the kitchen had only cooked half the order so they would need to prepare three more plates. When I reminded her that I had already taken three plates out she asked "What table?" I told her that I had taken them to table 14. She went back out to the dining room to look.
When she came back she very slowly said "There are only six plates on the table." When I reminded her that there were only six people at the table she stopped for a while so she could process that bit of information and do the complex math involved in figuring out that each of the six people at the table had a plate of food. Eventually she said "Ok. Don't do that again" and dug around in her pocket until she found a valium. She put it in her mouth and washed it down with a swig of non-dairy coffee creamer. She offered me one but I decided it would be better to stay awake for the rest of the shift and politely declined.
By this time we only had about an hour of service remaining and things were starting to calm down a little bit. That's about the time the incident happened. It was a table of four and their dinner service had gone fine. Super friendly people and not overly demanding. When we picked up the plates, Toppy asked them if they were interested in dessert. They all said they wanted this flaming fruit thing on the menu. It was kind of like a Bananas Foster but had a bunch of other stuff in it in addition to bananas. I can't remember the name and I have never seen it again since then. It was prepared and served tableside on a gueridon that the server wheels up next to the table for cooking and serving the dessert.
If you're not familiar with a gueridon, technically it's a small four legged table, but in a restaurant it's a small portable cart with one or two burners built into it. The idea is that the server or maitre' d wheels it up to the table and cooks something right there in front of the customers. It is used mostly in fine dining ala carte restaurants, but occasionally you see them used in a not-so-fine restaurant, mostly for flaming desserts or chateau briand.
A genuine gueridon is a beautiful piece of cooking and serving equipment and is treated with reverence and respect by both the service staff and the kitchen. It is meticulously cleaned, polished, and maintained after every shift. As you have probably guessed, we didn't have a genuine gueridon. We had a rickety beat-up metal cart with a single burner portable camping stove on it. After all, why pay upwards of $2,000 for a real gueridon when you can buy a utility cart at Wal Mart, throw a tablecloth over it, and place a portable camping stove on top for less than $50? You get the picture.
Now, this particular dessert had several ingredients and was easy to prepare. At least it was easy to prepare if you weren't high as a fucking kite. One of the ingredients was Bacardi 151 rum. If you're familiar with 151, you know it's basically jet fuel in a bottle. They use it in some exotic tropical cocktails to increase the alcohol content to the point where most places limit you to only 2 drinks. Other than that the only place it's used in cooking is to produce a big flame when you're cooking in front of a bunch of customers. When it's used in Bananas Foster it only takes about half an ounce to produce a flame that gets the customers all excited and impressed. It usually helps earn the server a bigger tip, but otherwise doesn't do much except maybe set off the restaurant's smoke detector for a minute or two.
The problem that night was with the 151. For some reason when the kitchen set up the cart for Toppy they gave her a small wine carafe full of 151 instead of about an ounce in a soup cup. They probably saw that the order was for four servings and thought a 12 ounce carafe would be the equivalent of four 1/2 ounce portions. Anyway, they put a full 12 ounces in a small carafe and threw it on the cart along with everything else.
She slowly wheeled the cart out to the table and got it situated. She told me to stand behind her and to the side so I could watch but wouldn't be in her way. With that she proceeded to make the dessert. She got all the ingredients in and it was time for the 151. It was at this point that I noticed that there was enough 151 in the carafe to get 10 sailors drunk. I started to say something but she squinted at me and shook her head. Toppy fearlessly started to pour all of the 151 into the screaming hot pan with everything else.
It wouldn't have been disastrous except for two things: First, Toppy moved very slowly and poured the 151 from directly above the pan. She was not able to move her hand out of the way in time to keep it out of the fireball that immediately erupted from the pan. Second, she did not stop pouring even when the fireball engulfed most of her right arm and the now empty carafe. In a reflex move she pulled the pan away from the burner with her other hand and flaming 151 poured out all over our makeshift gueridon, the customer's tablecloth, and her apron. Toppy looked down and realized that she and everything around her was on fire. It took her a minute to process the gravity of the situation and then she slowly took a couple of steps backward.
By this time the customers had jumped out of their chairs and were standing against the wall behind the table. I had reached over to an adjacent table and grabbed a nearly full water pitcher so I could attempt to put Toppy out. I managed to get some water on her sleeve and put that out and then smothered her burning apron until it was mostly out. She looked down at the apron as if she was having a hard time understanding that she had very recently been on fire. After a full 30 seconds of careful consideration she very slowly said "Wow" and then looked around the dining room to see if any of the other 200 people in there had noticed the smoke and flames. The place was silent.
Next Toppy jumped into action. She turned to the burning tablecloth and picked up a napkin. I thought she would spread it out and throw it over the fire to smother it, but instead she folded it neatly and started slowly wiping the fire like you would wipe a baby's chin after feeding him a spoonful of pureed beets. This continued for some time. I realized that she wasn't making any headway at putting out the fire and retrieved another pitcher of water from the service area. By this time all of the 151 had burned up and the fire was consuming the polyester tablecloth. The smell was stifling. There was enough water in the pitcher to put out the fire so everyone was out of danger.
The Assistant Manager had made it to the table by now and was doing his best to calm the customers to the point where they would just leave and not sue the the place into bankruptcy. In the middle of this, Toppy joined the conversation and offered to move them to a fresh table and try the dessert again. She told them she might even be able to get the Assistant Manager to comp the dessert so they wouldn't have to pay for it. They just stared at her like they had been stunned with a cattle prod.
Eventually they realized that no one had been hurt and none of their clothing or stylish accessories had been damaged and began joking about it being an evening they would remember for a long time. They assured us they would be back in the future but they would probably request a different table and would certainly avoid that particular dessert. As they were leaving Toppy squinted at me while trying to remain standing and said "I think I used too much butter."
Later that night we were all in the party room while the servers did their banks and prepared for their check-outs. They started to talk about how much they had made in tips that night. Today servers don't share that information with everyone, but back then they did. They went around the table and I heard numbers like "35," "42," "51," "18," and "26." That doesn't seem like a lot of money for a busy shift of working your ass off, but back then it was pretty good money. Today good servers make a lot more than that, but the cost of living is much higher. They eventually got to Toppy and everyone went silent waiting for her to respond. She was just finishing up counting her money and eventually she said "170." I didn't believe that, but later one of the other servers told me that Toppy usually made two or three times what everyone else made. I still don't really understand it, but I'm wondering if the valium actually helped.
That's pretty much the end of the story of Toppy. I finished out my two weeks with her without any additional incidents and went back in the kitchen to spend a month shucking oysters and cutting up fish. Once we were there very late for a party and Toppy asked me if I wanted a ride home. I thought about how much valium I had seen her consume during the shift and politely declined.
I lost track of Toppy after I moved on to the next place, but I still think of her occasionally because she's one of those really special people we encounter during our journey through life.